color correction

I won’t color my own hair! I won’t color my own hair!

We have entered into fall, which brings a lot of warm tones with hues that we are wanting to shift in our hair color.  Added warmth is always a good way to start this process, deepening blondes into more of golden pigments, shifting lighter haired clients into dark looks for something more dramatic and welcomes in a new look.  It is so fun to use your hair and makeup as an accessory and it is a good way to make you look and feel different.

I have a lot of clients whom have asked me about home coloring and I have seen it go extremely wrong.  Hair is like a color science.  There are levels of hair color with underlying pigments to each shade of hair.  Being a great colorist starts with understanding these pigments.  I have seen girls who were blonde and wanted to go dark and do “a home job” making their hair instead turn muddy or green.

This is a very complicated process of tinting the hair darker.  Colorists need to fill the hair with the pigments that have been removed to later accomplish the desired shade and tonal hue. One of the major differences in professional color compared to box dye is that box color has an oxidative dye in the color.  What this means is that the color molecules are so big they cannot fully open the cuticle and deposit the color molecules into the hair’s cortex.  The dye just sits on top of the hair shaft while never closing the cuticle down.  So, the home application generally will go fine the first time, but come second and third it will start to go darker and darker.  Eventually leaving your hair very dark and dehydrated looking.  Often times, this point is when I get a call from an at home color client.

And just a heads up: color correction is one of the hardest and most difficult things to do in the salon.  It generally requires the entire day and at a very expensive rate.  The chemicals are harsh to the hair to pull these larger molecules from the hair and often takes a multi-step process.  So, the box dye that was suppose to save you money just in fact will cost you a lot more. I recommend finding a colorist and working with just one.  They know your hair, take notes and can set you up for later appointments in changing the look of your hair.

At WW, we offer in-between maintenance, meaning gray hair clients can come in for just the crown and around the face to keep the gray away from the world.  Blondes can come in for a 20-pak which means the roots stay nice and fresh making your color looks and feeling vibrant.

POSTED September 23rd 2012 by Kim Namanny